The Melbourne stereotypes are true. Disjointed summers, all-black outfits, and a certain snobbery when it comes to craft brews of both the hopped and caffeinated variety. But the magic of Melbourne is also undeniable: the near-constant hubbub of Flinders Street Station can energise even the dullest of days, tree and table-lined streets packed out ‘til late have that distinct European feel, and the city’s striking architecture brings romance in spades.
Regardless of what side of the fence you sit on in the great Melbourne versus Sydney debate, Australia’s cultural, coffee, and culinary capital is brimming with things to see, eat, drink and do. We could add hundreds upon thousands of eateries and activities to this Melbourne how-to, but the sheer volume of world-class restaurants, eye-opening museums, chaotic markets, and luxury accommodations can make planning a weekend away rather overwhelming.
So, we’re sticking with the essentials: here’s our pint-sized guide for a weekend well-spent in moody Melbourne.
Where to stay
Mövenpick Hotel Melbourne on Spencer
If you’re only there for the weekend, we recommend staying somewhere central. And, given it’s only for one or two nights, somewhere a little luxe. Cue: Mövenpick Hotel Melbourne on Spencer, the CBD’s luxury modern hotel sitting pretty directly opposite the Southern Cross Station. Located on the sixth floor of the Premier Tower skyscraper (look for distinctive wave-like curved facade), the Mövenpick’s 24-hour gym and sauna, heated pool, double-glazed windows, blackout curtains, king-sized beds, wall-sized artwork by local artists, and views across Melbourne’s skyline make this luxury hotel our top choice for CBD stays. Every day from 3:30 pm to 4:30 pm, they sweeten the deal with the ‘Chocolate Hour’, a daily celebration of the brand’s origins where guests are offered complimentary chocolate-based sweets.
Things to see and do
Take A Tour Of The National Gallery of Victoria
The NGV brings to Southbank a constant rotation of classical and contemporary exhibitions from across the globe, as well as an impressive permanent collection where entry is free. There are over 155,000 works of art created by more than 15,000 artists — including the world’s largest collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art — but the scale, spirit, and grandeur of the NGV are worth the trip alone. Pencil in at least two to three hours to saunter around the space, it’s an ever-changing cultural institution with something for everyone.
Get Lost In The Queen Victoria Market
Since 1878, Australia’s oldest and largest open-air market has played a key role in Melbourne’s cultural, business, and social scene. It is always humming but things turn up a notch on weekends when a flurry of traders spruiking local produce, locals doing their weekly shop, and tourists taking it all in flock to the top end of Queen Street. Stop in at the always-heaving Books for Cooks — QVM’s world-renowned culinary bookstore — before sauntering through the 600+ stalls and shops for speciality ingredients, quality fashion, kitsch souvenirs, artisan goods, and more.
Catch a game at the ‘G
Whether you’re up for the Boxing Day test match, a Richmond Tigers home game, an AFL final, or a guided tour of the stadium, a visit to the MCG should be on everyone’s bucket list. You don’t have to be a dedicated supporter to enjoy a day at the ‘G — the energy, atmosphere, and spirit of the MCG are worth the trip alone. It’s the kind of place where you’ll bond with a stranger over a mutual love (or hate…) of a specific sports team; and where any-time-of-day beers, hot jam doughnuts, and pies are sanctioned. No games happening during your weekend in Melbourne? Go behind the scenes with the aforementioned tour, suited to both sports fans and history buffs alike with the option to upgrade to entry into the Australian Sports Museum.
Shop up at storm with some retail therapy
Sure, you can go shopping in any of Australia’s capital cities, but Melbourne’s fashion scene is a cut above the rest. For luxury brands, an easy five-minute tram ride along Bourke Street will get you to Emporium, the city’s premier shopping destination for global high-end brands.
To the south of the river, get lost in Chadstone — aka the largest shopping centre in the Southern Hemisphere — as you wander in and out of the 500+ stores, or visit the boutiques of Australia’s best fashion brands down High Street in Armadale.
Over in Collingwood, swing by the stunning E Nolan Dressing Room for made-to-measure suiting, timeless tailored garments, and ready-to-wear transeasonal staples; trawl through the troves of vintage fashion at Vintage Garage; and pick up your own into Aletheia & Phos for something special from the coveted fine jewellery brand.
Where to eat and drink
Miss Mi
Hotel restaurants get a bad rap, but Melbourne’s ever-evolving dining scene is rewriting that narrative. Over the past few years, some of the city’s most exciting reservation-worthy restaurants have opened within hotel lobbies: there’s La Madonna in Next Hotel, Luci at Hilton Melbourne LQS, and our pick of the bunch, Mövenpick Hotel’s Miss Mi. Filipino-born chef Christian Corpuz is behind the fresh Asian-Australian-inspired menu, embracing the complex flavours of Southeast Asia and native ingredients from our own backyard. This buzzing eatery — that scored an AGFG Chef’s Hat for the second year running — is the perfect place to perch for your first night in Melbourne, or pop in for the express lunch between adventures the next day.
Embla
Wander a little further down Little Collins until you hit Russell Street and you’ll find a So Where Next favourite: wood-fired wine bar, Embla. Quintessentially cool and ‘Melbourne’ to a tee, Embla was one of the very first iterations of what we know today to be a classic Melbourne wine bar. Much-loved chef Dave Verheull is behind the pass in the open kitchen, dishing up wine-friendly share plates that highlight fermented, fire-licked, and pickled produce. From behind the bar, wine guy Christian McCabe has curated a list of small-batch Australian and international drops, with the well-versed staff sharing their extensive knowledge in easy-to-understand languages so that you can always find the right drop for the occasion (sans the pretentious wine jargon we hear too often at similar venues).
The Waiters Restaurant
Melbourne’s worst-kept secret. The Waiters Restaurant is the inner-city stalwart that’s been slinging piping hot bowls of spaghetti since 1947. BYO bottle of red and go for the crowd-favourite caprese salad before twirling your fork around one of the many pastas on the menu, from spaghetti bolognese made with a trifecta of meats to ricotta ravioli in a rich red sauce, finishing with a fat slab of tiramisu. No matter what you order, expect big portions, fuss-free service, bargain prices, and uncomplicated flavours.
Soi 38
Before you can see Soi 38, you can smell it: the spicy, sweet aromatics of traditional Thai cuisine waft down Bourke Street. Follow your nose and you’ll soon find yourself at the bottom of a multi-level carpark with dozens of hungry locals perched on colourful plastic stools while feasting on authentic Thai street food. The aromatic beef boat noodles (kway teow reua) are what draws in the crowds: vermicelli rice noodles are topped with sliced beef, tripe, minced beef balls, and veggies.
Poodle
A short tram trip into Fitzroy and you’ll find Poodle: not the cute curly canine (though there is a ceramic pink one at the bar), but Gertrude Street’s art-deco inspired restaurant and bar that’s a little bit fancy but a whole lotta fun. With its award-winning interiors by Bergman and Co, French-leaning European menu, playful cocktails — including the ‘Wet Poodle’ gin martini — and charming staff, Poodle is always a good time. Kick off the evening with Poodle’s seaweed madeleines served with smoked Yarra Valley salmon roe, kefir cream, and bottarga before working your way through chef Emma Dawson’s elegant menu (with a glass of Poodle’s plonk nursed firmly in hand at all times).
Little Hop
Follow the glow of the vivid orange sign offering nothing more but the words ‘TACOS’ and you’ll find Little Hop, Fitzroy’s ultra-cool tequila and taco bar. As narrow as it is colourful (i.e. very), Little Hop is a favourite of off-duty hospo workers enjoying pre-shift tacos and post-shift shots of mezcal; Brunswick Street shoppers refuelling on tortilla chips and guac; and regulars chatting over a beer to a soundtrack of vinyl records. The menu features seven different taco fillings, each as delicious as the last, plus a handful of Mexican-inspired snacks best washed down with Margarita, Bloody Maria, Sangria, or local wine from the concise and considered drinks list. In true Melbourne form, Little Hop doesn’t take bookings, so consider getting there early to nab a seat at the bar or out the front on Brunswick Street.
Main image credit: Mitchell Luo | Pexels